Today I started working on the daggerboard trunk. In the end I succeeded in making a dry run assembly of the trunk.
Next step with the trunk is gluing the parts together as to get two half trunks followed by coating the inside several times with unthickened epoxy to seal the wood. After final assembly you cannot get there anymore.
Also I cut notches in the thwart beams to test fit the placement on the keel. Not that bad for an amateur. Following step will be marking where the slot will be cut in the keel.
That is an arkward very irreversible process so I will not do that today.
I also started pre fabbing the daggerboard itself using solid western red cedar.
The bottom was roughly cut into an elliptical shape. On top I rounded it of and cut the hole to put your hand in to lift the daggerboard.
Empirical I found out that the cedar is apparently to "brittle" for that purpose as the hand grip just broke of.
My present idea for a corrective action is to steam and laminate 2 or three thin strips of mahagony around the handle and glue in the broken peaces. Maybe it even looks noce to have a mahogany topside!
Tomorrow is an other day.
Not much done today. Of course further cleaning done but surely not yet finalized.
A 4 meter long piece of red cedar was ripped to get the rub rails on the table saw cutting at a 20 degree angle. I tried to be clever but in the end the two rub rails are not fully identical. When on the boat I don't think anyone will notice.
I did put the rails on the boat with screws to get a fit. After gluing I will replace the screw holes with bungs.
It looks quite smart with the rub rails on. Ripping the rub rails left me with a narrow piece of long cedar so I ripped that in two pieces to be used as sheer strake moldings.
I don't know yet how to get them on the boat. Arch Davis uses nails but I am afraid the red cedar will split. Food for thought.
As cleaning the hull is not very inspiring work I looked for a more interesting job and after studying the drawings decided to start with the daggerboard trunk. First converting the dimensions from Imperial to Metric. I use a very good website http://www.lenntech.nl/calculatoren/lengte/lengte.htm from a Dutch engineering firm for the conversion.
Enough work to do.
Today I started with cleaning the section where the beams for the side seats are coming. When those beams are in it is slightly more difficult to clean.
Cleaning was tedious. Also I found the end of a screw that came through the inside of a stringer. With a Dremel like tool (aquired for 10% of the price of a Dremel) I could get rid of the screw end.
On the table saw I ripped the two side beams and notched the in the cross beams. I kept the side beams to long because these are easy to cut to the right length when in place. Did not want to take the risk of cutting them too short. I know my capabilities too well :-) After that epoxied them in and also epoxied two additional saddles. Only two saddles to go at the stern.
Tomorrow more cleaning followed by more cleaning. Now I will go through the drawing package again to see whether I forgot something.
Yesterday not much work was done. Other business was more important. More work done today.
After putting saddles on two forward beams I did take the station 2 mold out. Instant effect. Far easier to clean out the epoxy in this section.
For better cleaning I acquired a B&D palm sander with the possibility to put a "finger" at the front end. Very handy to get into corners.
All other cross beams were made and glued in. The middle beams were easier because the hull is almost straight there in longitudinal direction. So one axis less to bevel.
Also the beam is easier to position and fix. I used a small red cedar wedge at both ends to clamp the beam.
That technique was not possible at the end of the boat. Due to the curvature of the hull wedging is not possible with the slippery epoxy so I decided to use positioning screws there.
After curing these screws are taken out and a red cedar 8 mm bung is put in. Looks even smart.
Next step is putting saddles at several beams, cleaning, taking the othe molds out and making the two cross beams for the side seats followed by more cleaning. After that I think it is time to rip the rubrails and the sheerstrake moldings.
Still a lot of work to do.
I am getting a little better in making the compound bevels needed for the good fit of the seatbeams.
Four seat beams are in place now. Only one of them has already the saddles in place to reinforce the joint.
Fitting is somewhat of an epoxy fete but I don't care. Cleaning the inside has to be done anyhow. Better to use too much than not enough.
Tomorrow I want to install most of the remaining beams and place the saddles at the beams where the epoxy has cured.
After that there will be sufficient stiffness in the hull to get the molds out.
Tonight I will go to a course for the WINGPS 5 navigation planning software I am using (www.stentec.com). At the end of May we will go to the German part of the Wadden Sea with friends where due to the tides good trip planning is important.
First I glued the aft breasthook in place and did some cleaning of the inside of the boat. Cleaning the excess epoxy is a tedious job so I started with the first seat beam for the bow side.
Luckily I could rip a beam from a piece of wood left over from making the stem. This beam needs some nasty compound bevels. I could not get an exact fit and in the end decided to let Dr. Epoxy cure the problem. I did a screw through the beam at both sides into the stringer for positioning during setting of the glue.
The first saddle was put in made from 4mm ply. That was a good moment to stop before I made to many mistakes.
Tomorrow I am to a reunion type of meeting 2 1/2 hours driving from my present location so no workday tomorow.
Yesterday the handle part of the daggerboard-to-be broke of and I had an idea for a corrective action. 
As you may have noticed the Peapod was sitting rather high on the saw horses. A little bit of back breaking when working on the inside.
